
Even after a major renovation opened up the floor plan, the rhythm of the dining room at Anton & Michel is still set by the gueridon carts rolling between tables. Established in 1980, this is one of those places where dinner comes with a specific kind of theater. You see it in the way servers carve racks of lamb right at the table – a practice that feels distinct in an era of small plates and open kitchens. The menu technically spans modern European and Californian influences, serving everything from whole branzino to duck breast, but the tableside classics tend to dominate the room. The space itself sits within the Court of the Fountains, and the layout takes full advantage of the setting. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the courtyard, where a large fountain anchors the view. When the weather holds, the patio is the primary draw, though you’ll likely need the heat lamps once the sun dips behind the buildings. Inside, the aesthetic is cleaner now than in the early days – think hand-set masonry, columns, and a lounge centered around a fireplace – but the energy peaks at dessert. This is when the carts return, this time for the Bananas Foster or Cherries Jubilee, sending bursts of blue flame up toward the ceiling as the sugar caramelizes. It’s a spectacle that keeps the room busy with anniversaries and regulars who have been coming here since Tony Salameh first opened the doors.