
Log-framed public sauna on a historic military island, reached by a ten-minute ferry. The two wood-fired saunas are co-ed, with large windows looking out to the archipelago and a shared terrace for a post-steam plunge in the sea.
Cool mornings call for a walk by the harbor, and I never skip a stop for cinnamon buns.
A ten-minute ferry ride from Helsinki’s Market Square lands you on Lonna, a small, 150-meter-long island that sits between the mainland and the Suomenlinna fortress. For centuries, this was military territory – first for storing gunpowder, later for demagnetizing ships to protect them from naval mines – and was completely inaccessible to the public until 2014. Today, its collection of old red brick and wooden service buildings is joined by a modern public sauna. The sauna building itself is a handsome log-framed structure, designed to complement the island’s history. Inside, the facility is divided into men's and women's changing rooms, with a gender-neutral option also available. The two saunas are the main event – both are co-ed and heated by enormous, single-heating wood-burning stoves. They are built in a loft style, with washing areas on the ground floor and the hot benches, or *lauteet*, located up a flight of nine steps. From up there, large windows provide a direct, uninterrupted view of the Baltic Sea. The whole experience is structured around a two-hour time slot, which you have to book online in advance. Ferry tickets are a separate purchase. The intended rhythm is a cycle of intense heat in the sauna, cooling off on the large outdoor terrace, and taking a dip in the sea. A rocky, uneven path leads down to the water, so bringing some kind of footwear for the swim is a good idea. Swimsuits are optional, as is traditional. Admission includes soap and a *laudeliina* – a small seating cloth – but you’ll need to bring your own towel or rent one from the reception, which is located in the island’s original guardhouse.
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