
My days usually start with a pastel de nata and a walk up too many hills.
The Tram 28 stop on Avenida Almirante Reis lets you off right in front of Cervejaria Ramiro, a classic seafood hall set inside a late-Art Nouveau building. This is a family-run institution that has been here since 1956, and it follows the traditional model of a ‘cervejaria-marisqueira’ – a loud, unpretentious beer hall specializing in incredibly fresh shellfish. The style was brought to Lisbon by Galician migrants, and Ramiro’s founder was one of them, gradually transforming his modest tavern into one of the city's essential seafood destinations by introducing high-quality shellfish to the menu. The ground floor is the louder, busier of the two levels. This is where you’ll find the large aquariums full of the day's catch – stone crab, lobster, and more – set against walls of marine-themed tiles from the Viúva Lamego house. An upstairs dining room is a bit quieter, but the whole place maintains a convivial, bustling energy from open to close. The menu is straightforward and almost entirely focused on seafood, which is sold by weight. You’ll see plates of giant tiger prawns, deep-red scarlet prawns known as carabineiros, and goose barnacles (percebes) covering most tables. Clams in garlic sauce – amêijoas à Bulhão Pato – are a staple, served with plenty of toasted, buttered bread for soaking up every bit of the sauce. Pata Negra ham is also available to start. The local custom here is to finish the meal not with dessert, but with a 'prego' – a simple steak sandwich on a roll. It's a tradition that caps off the seafood feast. Ramiro is almost always crowded, so reservations are essential. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.