Esarn Kheaw

Long before London’s dining scene began parsing regional Thai borders, the Puntar family was already cooking the distinct food of Ubon Ratchathani on the Uxbridge Road. Established in 1992, Esarn Kheaw – which translates to "Green Isan" – was the city’s first restaurant dedicated specifically to Northeastern Thai cuisine, and the operation remains strictly family-run today, with the second generation now managing the floor and kitchen. The dining room is tight and unpretentious, often packed to capacity with locals who know the drill. Tables are squeezed close enough that you might bump elbows with your neighbors, and the decor has remained largely unchanged for decades, featuring family portraits, framed commendations, and a fish tank bubbling near the bar. The menu avoids the sweetened, coconut-heavy curries often associated with central Thai cooking. Instead, flavors here are sharp, fermented, and unapologetically spicy. Sticky rice is the primary staple, served in baskets and meant to be eaten by hand alongside dishes like *som tam* (papaya salad) or bamboo shoot salad, both of which carry significant heat. Grilled meats are a focus, particularly the *suea rong hai* (crying tiger steak) and *gai yang* chicken. For contrast, many tables order "son-in-law eggs," which are deep-fried and dressed in tamarind sauce. Because the space is small and demand is high, booking is essential. As a nod to the family’s origins, you will still see menu prices listed in Thai Baht alongside the sterling.