Loreto

The red clay warehouse that houses Loreto stands out in the low-slung Frogtown neighborhood. It’s a former industrial building set near the LA River, and with no other tall structures around, it has a real sense of open space. Inside, the tall ceilings and abundant natural light create an airy, bright atmosphere. The design uses a palette of sandy browns, pale blues, and desert earth tones meant to evoke the coastal feel of Baja. Seating is split evenly between the main dining room and a large outdoor patio filled with park-like plants. The culinary concept is a refined take on Baja-style *mariscos*, with sustainably caught seafood flown in daily from the region. Japanese influences appear in dishes like the Atun Picante, but the core of the menu is Mexican coastal classics. You’ll find a strong raw bar with ceviches like the Ensenada with Dungeness crab and melon, and tostadas topped with fatty tuna. The whole experience, however, is built around the large-format *zarandeados* – whole fish, grilled and served family-style. The branzino is the main draw, arriving at the table with beans, rice, avocado, salsas, and fresh tortillas for building tacos. It’s a communal way of eating that defines the meal. For those not eating seafood, there’s a completely separate vegetarian menu with options like mushroom skewers and papaya ceviche. The drinks program sticks to the regional theme, with a long list of mezcals and a wine selection focused on Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe. Reservations are essential on weekends, and keep in mind there’s no phone – you book through OpenTable or email. During the day, a more casual lunch concept, Mariscos Za Za Zá, operates from the same patio, serving out of a back alley window.