Tucked away on Tulloch Road, in a lane just behind the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Bagdadi has been a Colaba institution for well over a century. The restaurant’s exterior is completely unassuming, giving way to an interior that is simple, functional, and built for one purpose – to serve a lot of people quickly. The space is defined by its long tables and shared wooden benches, creating a communal atmosphere where you’re expected to find an open spot and settle in next to strangers. A traditional wooden board on the wall lists the menu in Hindi, English, and Urdu, a detail that has likely remained unchanged for decades.
The food is straightforward Mughlai and North Indian cuisine, with a menu that has been preserved for generations. Most tables will have the signature Chicken Fry, a piece of chicken served in a bright red, flavorful tomato-based gravy with a single piece of potato. It is almost always ordered with the famously gigantic Tandoori Roti – a soft, fluffy flatbread large enough to share. Other staples fill out the menu, from slow-cooked mutton dishes like Nihari and Dabba Gosht to a Brain Masala Fry and various kebabs.
This isn’t a place to linger. The service is fast, the atmosphere is bustling, and the entire operation is geared towards a quick turnover to manage the constant queue that forms outside. The line moves efficiently, but you should still plan for a wait during peak dinner hours. For years, a common local ritual involved having drinks at the nearby Gokul bar before heading here for a full meal. A simple caramel custard is the standard way to end the meal, and there's also a small, separate ice cream parlour operated by the restaurant just across the road. Keep an eye out for Baby, the resident cat who is a permanent fixture of the place.
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