Dame

Look for the unmarked door on MacDougal Street – Dame runs with a footprint about as tight as you’ll find in Manhattan. The main room is small: tables line one side, and a short counter faces directly into the open kitchen. Most nights, the bar seats fill first, with regulars and newcomers watching the kitchen crew work just a few feet away. There’s no back room or hidden patio – what you see from the door is what you get. The menu sticks close to seafood, mostly small plates meant for sharing. Fish and chips is the staple – thick, crispy pieces of fried fish, served with tartar sauce and a side of chips. Oysters turn up both raw and grilled, usually dressed simply. Tuna tartare lands on thick toast, sometimes finished with bottarga. Squid and scallion skewers come hot off the grill, and whitefish croquettes are ready to split as soon as they hit the table. Grilled cabbage sometimes shows up with lobster on top, and there’s usually a bowl of curried crab rice somewhere in the mix. Bread comes out crusty, and the butter beans – served cold – tend to divide the table. Desserts rotate, but sticky toffee pudding and a pear custard tart are regulars. Drinks lean toward a short list of cocktails and a house red made with Barbichette upstate. The space runs cozy, with low lighting and tables set close together. The open kitchen is the main show, especially for anyone at the counter. There’s a steady rhythm to the room – plates come out fast, and the kitchen keeps things moving without much fuss. Reservations are the norm, since walk-ins are rare with so few seats. Entry is right off the street, with no stairs or steps to navigate. The menu changes up with the seasons, and most groups end up ordering a spread to share – usually more plates than you think you’ll need.