A long counter faces an open kitchen and its visible charcoal grill, serving as the heart of Adraba. This is where you want to sit, with a direct view of the chefs at work. The rest of the L-shaped room holds about 50 people and is kept simple and warm, using materials like wood, lime, and waxed concrete in a palette of olive, white, and gold. On one wall, a large fresco of Aramaic calligraphy honors the region’s nomadic traditions.
Holding down a corner in Montmartre with a classic Parisian bistro facade of floor-to-ceiling glass, the restaurant is the work of four former staff members from Balagan. Their concept is a modern take on Levantine cuisine, with dishes designed for sharing that draw inspiration from a wide arc of places – Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Israel, Iraq, and Iran.
Most meals start with the Esh bread, a wheat pancake grilled over the coals and served with tahini, fenugreek, and tatbila sauce. From there, the menu moves through small plates like beef tartare with tirshi rémoulade and larger dishes like lamb kefta on Turkish pita or sea bass with white butter and malouchia. The bar serves cocktails and a wine list that includes bottles from Georgia.
The atmosphere is consistently lively and festive, and it’s not uncommon for the room to break out in spontaneous applause or song for a celebration. It’s a place that stays open late, with service running until 2:00 AM on Fridays and Saturdays.