J.B. Ah Meng

J.B. Ah Meng operates out of a simple Geylang storefront, but the real dining room is the alleyway next to it. Here, dozens of tables are set up for a loud, energetic meal under the open sky, with the constant sound of woks clanging over high heat coming from the kitchen. Inside, the small dining room is functional and unpretentious – its main decoration is the two walls covered in photos of the famous chefs who make this a regular late-night stop, from Anthony Bourdain to Gordon Ramsay and Ferran Adrià. The draw is Chef Wang Feng’s Malaysian-style `zi char`, a style of wok-fried, shareable cooking he brought from his hometown of Ipoh. It’s different from the more common Hong Kong-influenced versions in Singapore, built around the intense, smoky aroma of `wok hei`. That flavor is the foundation for the J.B. San Lou Mee Hoon, a wide pancake of rice vermicelli that’s pan-fried until it’s deeply crispy on the outside and still soft in the middle. Another staple is the White Pepper Crab, which uses fresh, meaty crabs in a potent and distinctively spicy sauce that clings to every piece. You’ll also see the Garlic Chilli Lala – plump Filipino clams in a savory garlic and chili broth – on almost every table. Other dishes like the deep-fried pork belly and salted egg prawn balls round out the menu. The whole experience is designed for communal eating, and it’s a true supper spot, staying open until the early morning hours and attracting chefs after their own kitchens have closed. Calling ahead to reserve a table, particularly for one of the few indoor spots, is a very good idea.