Katsukami’s entire concept is built around elevating tonkatsu to a fine-dining course meal, a format it pioneered in Japan. You’ll find the restaurant on the fifth floor of the inconspicuous Ginza Miyako Building, accessible only by an elevator. The interior is intimate and minimalist, with just a handful of seats – about 14 in total. All of them are arranged around a central wooden counter, putting the open kitchen and the chefs' precise work on full display for everyone in the room.
The meal is a multi-course omakase that moves well beyond the standard loin and tenderloin to showcase the unique textures and flavors of rarer pork cuts. Dinner features pork sourced specifically from Yamagata prefecture, and you can expect to try parts like shoulder, rump, hip, and inner thigh. A typical progression might start with a tomato salad, followed by a sequence of individual pork cutlets, a minced pork cutlet, a palate cleanser, and a crab croquette. For dinner, the pork is served with a special balsamic vinegar sauce designed to complement the different cuts.
This is an educational experience. Each piece is presented directly by the chef, who explains the specific cut and the recommended way to eat it. Reservations are essential and should be made well in advance, as the small space fills up quickly and dinner service is often organized into two distinct seatings. The meal concludes with a choice between a rice dish or the frequently mentioned shaved ice for dessert.