A custom-made, wrought-iron spiral staircase connects the three floors of Seirinkan, a pizzeria that feels more like a personal cathedral to its owner’s obsessions. The whole space has a distinct steampunk feel, with dark wood floorboards, antique church pews for seating, and heavy scarlet curtains. It’s all the vision of owner-chef Susumu Kakinuma, whose love for The Beatles is a constant presence – their music plays exclusively, memorabilia is tucked into corners, and there's even a full band setup in the basement.
Down on the main floor, the industrial-style kitchen is built around a recessed wood-fired oven where Kakinuma makes every single pizza himself. The menu is an exercise in focus, offering just two options: a Margherita and a Marinara. Both are built on a 72-hour proofed dough made with Japanese flour and cooked for only 60 seconds. The Margherita comes with a light tomato sauce, cheese, basil, and a notable amount of salt and olive oil, while the Marinara is a simple combination of tomato, garlic, and oregano on a perfectly blistered crust. A few pasta dishes and appetizers round out the short menu.
Getting a table requires planning. Dinner reservations are essential and need to be made by phone several days in advance, as walk-ins are rarely successful. Lunch, on the other hand, is first-come, first-served, and a long line typically forms before the doors even open. The service at night can be fast-paced, and you might be told there’s a one-hour time limit for your table.
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Seirinkan
